What is Biodiversity, and How Does it Affect My Food Choices?
Mon, May 3, 2010
Author: Jacqueline Church (3 Articles)
Jacqueline Church is a contributing writer for Nourish Network, writes the Gourmet Food column for Suite101.com and created Teach a Man to Fish/Teach a Chef to Fish Sustainable Seafood events. She’s at work on a book Pig Tales: a Love Story about heritage breed pigs and the farmers, chefs and artisans bringing them from farm to table. She has a JD from Northeastern and lives in Boston with her husband. Links to her work and blogs are found at JacquelineChurch.com
I like to say “guilt does not make good gravy.”
One of the best investments we can make with our food choices is to support biodiversity by purchasing heritage breeds and heirloom varieties of fruits and vegetables.
Cheap food comes with hidden costs, and a bill we’ll all pay later.
This being the International Year of Biodiversity, its a good time to examine what this means and how it relates to being a Good Eater.
Biodiversity loss can be thought of in three ways:
- The loss of species, extinction
- The loss of genetic diversity within individual organisms
- The destruction of ecosystems diversity – the loss of habitats
Each of these three has direct consequences for human beings, for our health, and for our ecosystems. Each also affects our food production and food security. Each is affected by the choices we make every day about the foods we eat.
One of the most current and topical examples of a biodiversity threat is the vanishing bluefin tuna. Whether we, as stewards of the planet and its oceans, will stop the depletion of our oceans and the loss of species like bluefin is still very much an open question.
Myself, holding a Red Wattle Piglet
You may feel that the loss of one species or another is inconsequential or has little relevance in your daily life. You may wonder why you should be concerned if the bluefin disappear forever. It’s far more complex an issue than simply being deprived of a favorite choice at the sushi bar. Did you hear, fish poo might save the planet?
The Journal Science measured the effects of marine excreted calcium carbonate on the ocean’s ability to absorb CO2 — the first connection between healthy fish populations and the ocean’s ability to stem global warming.
2010 the International Year of Biodiversity
The United Nations declared 2010 as the International Year of Biodiversity. This was the target year to halt the rate of global biodiversity loss. Targets were not met globally and new information continues to underscore the urgent need for action.
Our industrial food systems have done much to limit the diversity of genetics within organisms and the diversity of organisms in ecosystems. A simple example of how dependence on a single crop can be devastating is the Irish Potato Famine. A single plant species became vulnerable to the blight that wiped it out. Genetic diversity within a species builds heartier disease resistance, which this crop lacked.
In our own modern industrial food production systems we have bred our species with an eye toward high levels of production. 90% of our food is now produced through only 15 plant and eight animal species. Holsteins now comprise 83% of our dairy cows. We artificially inseminate huge numbers of dairy cows with a small number of bulls’ genetic material. This makes our dairy herds increasingly susceptible to disease.
We’ve bred turkeys to have breasts so large they cannot fly or mate and must be artificially inseminated. In fact, 99% of all turkeys raised in the US are of a single species: the Broad Breasted White. Imagine if one clever pathogen were to threaten that species. In chickens a recent study of genetics showed that 50% of the ancestral genetics have been lost. In the US, 75% of pigs come from three main breeds.
Another unusual outcome of our modern industrial farming practices is the loss of connection between breeds and geography. Some chickens, cows, and pigs do better than others in hot climates, for example. If we believe the global warming trends will continue, we may well find ourselves in need of the breeds that can withstand higher temperatures and drier climates.
These issues affect crops as well. While only a handful of companies currently control about 1/3 of the global seed market, there is far less diversity in what farmers can and do grow than that might indicate. In the US over half the corn and almost half the soy comes from just four major providers.
In the 1970s large losses hit the genetically shallow corn crops in the US and in the 1980s similar losses hit the US & Brazil citrus crops. Our shallow crop genetics put our food production at great risk. Almost 96% of the commercial vegetable crops registered in 1903 are now extinct.
For all these reasons the United Nations, Food and Agriculture Organization entitled a 2004 report “Secretary-General Says Loss of Biodiversity Should Raise Loudest of Alarms”.
Whether it’s undiscovered miracle drugs, our oceans’ ability to absorb our output of CO2, or simply safe and healthy food supplies, we really do rely on biodiversity of our planet. We are, after all, part of the vast web of ecosystems, not innocent bystanders or disinterested observers.
Bringing the Global Biodiversity Message Home
So what does all this mean to us, in our daily lives? We can support the stewards of biodiversity by purchasing directly from them. We can learn more about the breeds that are endangered.
The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy is an organization dedicated to preserving biodiversity in domesticated livestock and poultry. Each year they gather and analyze data about the populations of poultry and livestock and release Conservation Priority Lists indicating which breeds are Critically Endangered, Threatened, on Watch, Recovering, or to be Studied. The Red Wattle is Critically Endangered meaning there are fewer than 200 annual registrations in the US and an estimated global population of less than 2,000. Records and registrations often change hands as old farmers die. Sometimes they’re lost for good. As recently as 1999 only 42 breeding animals were found to be registered.
A healthy litter of Red Wattle piglets
Today, through careful conservation and consolidation of registries, there’s a healthy breed association and now for the first time, an online store to purchase Red Wattle pork. (see below) By purchasing directly from small family farms who are raising heritage breeds you are supporting biodiversity. In researching my book Pig Tales: a Love Story, I’ve met some crazy heritage breed pigs, quirky farmers, and devoted chefs. Take the Red Wattle hog as one example.
By shopping your local farmers’ markets you can build relationships with the people who are raising some of these heirloom varieties of fruits and vegetables.
Ask your butcher, your produce guy, your fishmonger to source heritage breeds and heirloom varietals. As the Slow Food folks say: Eat ‘em to save ‘em. Create the market and support biodiversity, enjoy delicious food as it was meant to taste: rich, diverse in flavors and free of guilt.
Tags: Jacqueline Church
Great article. Love the photo of you and the Red Wattle
I now ask farmers what breeds they have when talking to them at the markets. It doesn’t take much, they are proud of what they do and address my questions well. I have yet to find Red Wattle here, but have been fortunate to find Berkshires, Black Pigs and Mangalitsa.
Thanks Vivian. I think you’re right on the money. It starts with a conversation and letting the producers, farmers, fishermen, know we care. I really hope this breed makes it. Jim & Wendy Parker are the new breed of farmers that are at the forefront of protecting the biodiversity that is important to us all.
You probably know that folks in the Chesapeake Bay region have been struggling with losing our traditional crab, oyster and rockfish populations for decades. We had a successful moratorium on rockfish taking, which has resulted in such a healthy rockfish population that folks then began to worry about the rockfish eating all the crabs! Last year, the State of MD put limits on the catch of some crabs, and the news is already good this spring, regarding crab numbers. They’re now debating whether to put more limits on crabbing. (My favorite bumper sticker about crabs reads, “Save the Crabs… Then Eat Them!”)
The point of all of this is that – for better AND for worse – we get to see on an up-close-and-personal basis, the effects of both loss and recovery of species. We see the effects in our diet, our neighbors’ livelihoods, our local economies, and our environment. Losses of species – losses of biodiversity – lead to more distress than one would think and has farther reaching consequences than one can imagine.
Gail – did you know the Rockfish spawning in the Chesapeake are the juvenile fish that later get caught up here off the shores? We call them stripers. There had been a back and forth finger-pointing session between commercial and recreational fishermen about who was to blame for declining population. Turns out the health of the Chesapeake population may have had as much or more to do with our population than either fishing group here. More evidence that we cannot really have spot specific solutions to global problems. My favorite example of the fallacy in that approach is suggesting you just swim in the non-peeing part of the pool. Yeah. Exactly.
I know it’s a little “off topic”, but I have to tell you about the first time I witnessed rockfish spawning in the our creek – perhaps it can give readers a picture of how things in their backyard can affect people states away.
One day I looked out the window and it appeared that the creek water was “boiling”. There were big mounds popping up all over the creek; they looked like bubbles. Of course I wanted to find out why it looked like our creek was boiling so I went outside to take a closer look. The bubbles were a rosy red, and I quickly realized that the mounds were actually fish – in this case rockfish. They were writhing and rolling all around each other; and there were I dare say hundreds of them! And they were huge!
Now being part Japanese, of course the first thought I had in seeing so many fish so close, was “yum”. I wondered whether it was rockfish season and whether I could catch and eat some of the fish in my creek. But my husband said, not only is it not rockfish season (and therefore illegal to catch them), they wouldn’t be interested in any bait I would offer them anyway – they had other things on their minds
. So I suppose you folks up near Boston could thank me for not scooping up some yummy rockfish while I could, and for letting them make more babies so we have a healthy rockfish/striper population both here and elsewhere.
I haven’t seen the rockfish spawning this spring yet (though we’ve seen plenty of other species do their thing), but if I get a chance to capture it on video, I’ll share it with you. It’s quite a sight to see!
Almost 96% of the commercial vegetable crops registered in 1903 are now extinct.
That is a staggering statistic you offer here and quite sobering. The “eat it to save it” model really works for reviving the raising of (and therefore perpetuation) of heritage breeds. With fish, that saying doesn’t work quite as well and your crab bumper sticker speaks to that. First we need to save the fish, so we can then eat them.
Great pic!
Thanks Becky. It’s true there’s not a one-size fits all solution. I think the first step and one that works everywhere is to start asking questions. Start learning. Start the conversations.
Absolutely! And as part of the conversation, don’t forget to grow heirloom species of veggies, too! There are an abundance of seed saver and seed exchange groups, as well as businesses that sell heirloom varieties.
Good point, Gail. Not that this is going to save the food industry, but if you entertain a lot (which I do), growing heirloom varieties increases people’s exposure to the sights and flavors they’ve been missing out on. Combined with one or two of the great statistics Jacqueline compiled for this piece, it can be an important conversation starter.
In the context of gardening, one truly cannot underestimate the beauty of some of these varietals. These two absolutely blew my mind in terms of beauty, so I’ve enthusiastically planted them this year:
“Moon & Stars Watermelons” (growing them vertically in an overhead canopy)
http://www.outblush.com/women/images/2007/05/moon-stars-watermelon.jpg
. . .and “Scarlet Runner” beans
http://en.f-url.at/var/furl/storage/images/media/images/teaser/kuerbissackerl/12011-1-ger-DE/kuerbissackerl.jpg
Great post, Jackie!
Another tragedy is the lost flavors and textures that we could enjoy from a wider selection of varieties, whether meat, produce, or grains. As you know, it’s fascinating to compare different breeds like one compares different wine varieties. It’s not really that easy – as you note, the growing region and other factors including the diet, husbandry practices and aging time & techniques also matter. But the more we expose people to the differences – and even kindergartners can tell the difference and tell you which they like best – the more I think we’ll create a large market demand for heritage breeds and varieties (or even the dominant breeds, which also vary by farm and by talent).
Jackie, great post! You’ve compiled so much valuable information in one place. The one other example I can think of which fits right into this is the Phylloxera pest which in the late 1800’s wiped out most of Europe’s grape vines. It was only by bringing over American species and grafting them to the rootstock of European vines that the industry was saved. It’s described here on Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phylloxera
A couple other great resources on this food biodiversity subject are:
The Slow Food Arc of Taste:
http://www.slowfoodusa.org/index.php/programs/details/ark_of_taste/
The Oldways Preservation Trust
http://www.oldwayspt.org/
and the Victory Seed Company
http://www.victoryseeds.com/
Many cities and towns also have local seed-exchange programs for preserving heirloom species native to the region. You can usually find them on http://www.meetup.com or by just googling them for your town.
Gail – thanks for that image of rockfish in heat! I’ve been amazed at the recent Discovery channel series on life. Always come away thinking “have we got it easy”!
Carrie – So true! Your beef tasting was eye-opening and know the various heritage breed pork I’ve tasted are each distinct from each other and the lot of them soooo different from commercial dry white bland crap. It makes me sad to think of pigs dying for such inferior dining. Is that crazy?
Joshua – another great seed company I love is Kitazawa. http://www.kitazawaseed.com/ They have many seeds that are hard to find, especially if you like various Asian vegetables and herbs. And you’re so right about phylloxera, hate to think where we’d be with no wine!
Anyone who’s interested in this topic, I highly recommend this wonderful presentation by Dr. Eric Chivian of the Harvard Center for Health and the Global Environment. He literally wrote the book. His text is used in many schools and he’s got a lovely presentation style, more story-teller than lecturer. It’s long but worth it to view in chunks. Really eye-opening and entertaining.
http://www.vimeo.com/8808331
Wow, I wish I had found Kitazawa earlier. Thanks! I was looking for a lot of those Asian vegetable seeds and couldn’t find them.
They are fantastic and a family-owned business with a great story.
The Food Lab linked to you on Facebook — great article.
I’d like to see a followup which includes the reasons for the reduction in biodiversity and genetic engineering (specialization of disease resistances, for instance).
Factory farming aside (where we see the weight of cheapest solutions = best solutions moved to near religion), where is the line of benefit to harm? and how we can move forward with the understanding that we must preserve biodiversity with-out ignoring the ivory tower issues of perfection starving third-world countries.
The argument that GMOs and industrialized agriculture is “feeding the world” is one of the most common fallacies raised by big agribusiness. Nicole Hahn Niman’s Righteous Porkchop very handily dismantles this shell-game of an argument, and many others. Far from feeding third world countries, the Monsantos of the world are crippling them with GMO seeds for plants that aren’t intended to grow in those climates. Those crops will need water that’s not available there. They’ll need herbicides that guess who will have to sell them? I really recommend Niman’s book.
As to the reduction in biodiversity, please see the video I linked to above of Dr. Chivian. One cause of biodiversity reduction can be seen in the razing of Brazilian rainforest to grow soy for industrial pig farms.
Another terrific resource for the basic information is the sustainable table website.
Far from ivory-tower arguments, these issues are important for each of us to consider in our daily food choices. That’s the point of the article.
I’ll just leave this right here:
http://nobelprize.org/nobel_prizes/peace/laureates/1970/borlaug-bio.html
There are plenty of ivory tower arguments in this area and to deny the other side has no position denies everyone the ability to address the serious concerns which are brought up in this article.
First of all, thank you for drawing the correlation between marine biodiversity, fish stocks and global warming. I don’t think people understand how important their fish choices are in regards to the health of the entire planet.
In addition, I recently spoke with a fisherman who has been losing over 60 percent of his catch to hungry (and particularly violent) sea lions who bite the fish as he is bring them in. Turns out the increase in sea lions has been pegged to the decrease in the population of sharks(their main predator) as a result of overfishing (shark-finning specifically). It is all so interrelated it’s amazing to think of the ripple effects.
Here is an interesting article about the shark population in relation to the entire marine ecosystem:
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2007/03/070329145922.htm
Great article Jackie,
Another indication of loss in biodiversity is the decreasing number of people who raise these animals or vegetables, or fish for sustainable catches. Rare breeds and sustainable fish cost more, are harder to sell and often taste different than what people are used to eating. Hopefully more folks will start looking for and treasuring those differences before we lose them.
Thanks Jason! I was speaking with one of the attendees at tonight’s Tufts forum (thanks for the referral!) – about his observation of a customer looking askance at heirloom tomatoes at the farmer’s market. I suggested the seller should have simply sliced one open for the skeptic to try. I don’t know a soul that’s tasted an heirloom tomato and longs for the orange styrofoam supermarket variety later.
With heritage breed pigs, I see the same sort of epiphany happen. Something deep in our taste memory tells us “this is what it’s supposed to taste like!”
Your point is well-taken though. It’s a short horizon we’ve got with many breeds and the market demand is not quite there yet. I think chefs like you are to be commended for guiding us. I hope we can eat them to save them, time is running out for too many.