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Author: Kenji Lopez-Alt (41 Articles)

J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is a contributing editor for Cooks Illustrated Magazine, runs a private chef business, KA Cuisine, and writes a weekly column on burgers and food science for SeriousEats.com. He is also an occasional co-host of America's Test Kitchen . Kenji holds a BS from MIT and lives with his wife in Harlem.

A meta-pantry is one of the secrets for great home cooks and restaurant chefs alike. Basic recipes that result in things that have a long shelf life, intense flavor, and a great amount of versatility. The things that you’ll keep on hand at all times that allow you to whip up great, flavorful meals quickly and efficiently. Things that can take a good meal and make it great.



Roasted chile oil is one of these things, and it’s allowed me to complete my quest for the best ma-po doufu I’ve ever had. After spending years trying to make the best mapo doufu using store-bought chile oil, it suddenly occurred to me that maybe the oil was my problem. I was right. (Follow the link for my account from the Globe and recipe, but make sure to substitute the real chile oil for storebought).



Here’s how to make your own. It’s incredibly easy, and will last indefinitely in a sealed container in the fridge.



Start with chiles. You want the small, dried Chinese or Korean hot red peppers. Get a good fistful of them crush them up or chop them fine, then throw them into a large pan, preferably a well-seasoned, cast-iron wok. Heat them over high heat until just beginning to smoke, flipping them constantly. Make sure you warn any roommates, significant others, or kids beforehand, because the smoke will induce massive coughing fits if you’re unready for it. As soon as the smoke starts, transfer the chiles to a cool pot.

Now, pour a neutral oil (canola or vegetable will work) over the chiles until they are covered by a half inch or so. Add a splash of roasted sesame oil as well, if you’d like. Just a bit. Heat the pot over medium-high heat just until the chiles begin to bubble.



Let it cool, and you’re done. In this particular batch, I also had some ginger and garlic scraps lying around, so tossed them in as well. Delicious!

Now that you’ve got it, be as creative as you’d like with it, but here are some of my favorite roasted chile oil uses:



- Use it in all sorts of Sichuan dishes: ma-po doufu, dan-dan noodles, qongqin chicken, steamed beef, etc.

- Drizzle it over homemade or store-bought dumplings with a bit of Chinese black vinegar.

- Pour it into noodle soups.

- Pour some over a block of plain silken tofu along with some soy sauce.
- Use little drops of it here and there to add heat to raw fish in sashimi or ceviches.



Anyone else have their own meta-pantries?